As the name suggests, Day Geckos are diurnal meaning they are awake during the day time. They are rather active geckos, and also quite curious. If given proper care, Standing's Day Geckos can live in a captive environment for many years.

Housing

As previously mentioned, Standing's Day Geckos are one of the largest Day Gecko species and can reach total lengths of up to 12 inches. With this in mind, as well as the fact that they are arboreal, a fairly large cage with plenty of climbing space is required. I would recommend nothing less than a 35 gallon aquarium (or equivalent in size) to house an adult pair, but of course they will readily use as much space as you can offer them. My adult pair is allowed to roam free as "insect control" in my herp room (which is about 9'x10') and they travel over every inch of the room on a regular basis.

Good ventilation is also important to the health of any species of day gecko. If using an aquarium, (which are a good choice), a screen top is a must to provide them with enough air circulation.

Plenty of branches, bamboo, or plastic pipes should be placed in the cage for the geckos to have surfaces to climb on. Live plants can also be kept in the enclosure with your geckos. This gives the cage a more natural look, and the geckos seem to enjoy it as well. Various types of plants can be used including, but not limited to, Bromeliads, Orchids, Pothos, and Sanseveria. If live plants are being used, appropriate lighting will be required.

Food and Lighting

Standing's Day Geckos feed readily on just about anything that moves (with the exception of their own young). In the wild their diet is believed to consist of mainly lizards, small insects, and nectar(s) but in captivity, they do just fine on a staple diet of crickets. They can also be offered appropriately sized pinkie mice, roaches, stick insects, spiders and flies.

In addition to the insects, baby food and/or a honey and water mix is also readily eaten. They particularly like the fruit flavoured baby foods, or a mixture of 1:1 liquid honey and warm water. In either case, I also mix in a little calcium/D3 powder.

Insects should be offered no less than three times a week. Baby food should be changed daily or only offered every two or three days, as it will spoil quickly. The honey and water mixture will last several days without going bad, but will thicken.

In the wild, Day Geckos rely on the sun to produce vitamin D3. Ultraviolet lighting can be used in captivity to simulate the sun so that the geckos can produce vitamin D3, however, if given proper vitamin supplementation UV lighting or access to unfiltered sunlight is not necessary. Though I have found that fluorescent lighting seems to be preferred by all Phelsuma's and they display brighter colors and are happier when fluorescent lighting is used.

Temperature and Humidity

Day time temperatures for Phelsuma standingi can range anywhere from low 70's to high 80's (Fahrenheit) through different times of the year, but they should always have access to a basking spot or some form of additional heat source of around 100 degrees F. This will give them the option of additional heat should they feel the need for it.

Unlike other Phelsuma's, Standing's come from a drier region in Madagascar and humidity levels that are too high can actually be harmful to them. I don't even recommend spraying down their cage more often than once a week if at all. They get plenty of moisture through their food, and fruit/honey mixtures and I've only come into problems when spraying them as well (especially with babies and juveniles).

Determining Sex

Sexing Standing's Day geckos is pretty easy once they are five to six months of age. As they begin to mature, females develop large calcium sacs on either side of their neck. These grow larger with age and usually develop until they are about the size of a marble (see immediate left). Males will have a much more slender neck but will develop pores in the shape of a "V" along the underside of their hind legs, just before the cloacae (see first image). Males also tend to develop a yellow tint around these pores as well, making them easily distinguished from females.

Breeding and Incubation

Standing's usually breed for 6 months of the year (in my experience) and can lay one clutch (1-2 eggs) about every 4-5 weeks under optimum conditions. If two eggs are laid, they will be "glued" together but not glued to the surface in which they are laid, like some other Phelsuma's do. Breeding behaviour can be induced by longer daylight periods (exceeding 12-14 hour light cycles) and higher ambient air temperatures. I find that in the climate where I live (Niagara Falls area), I don't need to change anything in order to get my Standing's to breed. They naturally will start laying eggs in February-March and will stop around July-August.

Once a female has found a good spot to lay her eggs, she will usually use the same spot all season unless something changes. The female will also keep an eye on her eggs, and will take care of the babies when they hatch for several months if allowed to. The babies can also do just fine on their own (I have raised babies both ways). The mother Standing's will ward off the father at feeding time giving the babies a chance to eat first. The father has also shown some interest in the babies as well, but not as much as the mother. If allowed to live with their parents after hatching, the female will become the babies' safety net to which they will flee when startled. I've observed that for around three months the babies are not often more than 24 inches away from their mother.

Eggs can be incubated at temperatures ranging from 80-84 degrees Fahrenheit on a dry surface, with medium/low humidity.

It has been theorized that incubation temperatures around 80 degrees will produce more males, and incubation temperatures towards 84 degrees will produce more females. I have been testing this theory over the last while, but my results are inconclusive as I don't always find the eggs close enough to the beginning of the incubation period, or sometimes don't find them at all (just find babies running around). I do believe this theory to be sound, and look forward to testing it further.

Typically eggs hatch between 45-60 days after being laid, depending on a few variables such as temperature and humidity, yielding a 3 inch baby.

Hatchlings

Hatchlings can be kept and fed in the same manner as the adults, but be more mindful of humidity and moisture levels as the babies seem to be more sensitive to humidity levels and temperature.

Babies can be fed appropriately sized insects in small quantities daily or every other day starting a few days after hatching.

Most species of Day Gecko are being bred in captivity now, and are readily available through pet stores and private breeders. Any Phelsuma species make very rewarding captives, but Standing's will always remain my favourite.

They are a fair size which doesn't make them as delicate as some of the smaller species of Phelsuma and they will tolerate human presence. My adult female will follow me around the room while I'm feeding the rest of my reptile collection looking for a treat. I would strongly recommend Standing's Day Geckos to anyone considering an interesting and colourful species of gecko to keep.